Turkish Desserts & Baklava

Almonds in Desserts: Aroma, Texture and Decoration

Almonds do three separate jobs in desserts and each needs a different preparation: whole for texture, ground for structure, paste for aroma.

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Almond is among the most used nuts in desserts. But different preparations do different jobs, and that distinction determines the result of a recipe.

What three functions do almonds serve?

The first function is texture.

Whole or coarsely broken almonds create a point of resistance in a dessert.

They contrast against a soft base and make a difference in the bite.

Baklava and kadayıf are examples of that use.

The second function is structure.

Ground almond replaces part of the flour.

Containing no gluten, it makes a dough crumblier and moister.

Macarons and almond tarts belong there.

The third function is aroma.

Almond paste and almond extract deliver flavour without any textural contribution.

That use is preferred in creams and fillings.

All three can appear in one recipe, creating a layered almond character.

Why and how is the skin removed?

The thin brown skin on an almond contains tannins.

Those tannins leave a faintly astringent taste.

They are also visually unwanted in pale products.

The skin is removed by blanching.

The almonds go into boiling water for sixty seconds.

They are then drained and refreshed in cold water.

That shock loosens the skin.

Pressed between the fingers, the skin comes away easily.

Blanched almonds must be dried; wet almonds spoil a dough and go mouldy.

Fifteen minutes in an oven at 50 to 60 degrees suffices.

Almonds with skins on are higher in fibre and more aromatic; they can be used in biscuits and cakes.

Blanched almonds should always be used in macarons and pale desserts.

PreparationUseResult
Whole, with skinBiscuits, cakesPronounced texture, aromatic
Whole, blanchedDecoration, badempareA clean appearance
FlakedSurface decorationVisual, light texture
Ground (coarse)Tart basesSandy texture
Ground (fine)Macarons, cakesStructure and moisture
PasteCreams, fillingsAroma only

What does toasting change?

Toasting increases the aroma of almonds markedly.

The Maillard reaction runs and new compounds form.

Raw almond is neutral and faintly sweet; toasted almond is intense and characterful.

The temperature is 150 to 160 degrees.

The time is ten to fifteen minutes, until the almonds turn pale gold.

Because their fat content is lower than walnut, almonds toast more slowly and tolerate it better.

But over-toasted almonds turn bitter.

One point needs attention: toasted almonds release their oil faster when ground.

Raw almonds should be used in delicate products such as macarons.

Toasting also firms the texture, which is unwanted in some products.

Raw almonds are preferred for soft fillings.

How are they ground?

Almonds are 50 percent fat, so grinding requires care.

Long grinding releases the oil and the almond turns to paste.

Three precautions apply.

The first is working in short bursts of about ten seconds with a pause between each.

The second is using cold almonds.

The third is grinding with a little of the recipe's sugar added.

The sugar takes up the oil and the mixture stays dry and powdery.

The fineness depends on the use.

Macarons require very fine grinding and sieving.

A coarse grind suffices for tart bases.

A one-millimetre sieve suits; a finer one increases waste.

Coarse pieces caught in the sieve go back for regrinding.

What separates almond paste from marzipan?

The two get confused but their ratios differ.

Almond paste contains more almond by weight.

A typical ratio is two parts almond to one part sugar.

The texture is coarser and the flavour more almond-led.

Marzipan contains more sugar.

A typical ratio is one part almond to one or two parts sugar.

The texture is smoother and can be modelled.

Marzipan is therefore used for decoration and figures.

Almond paste is used in fillings and to flavour creams.

Both can be strengthened with almond extract.

Bitter almond extract is used in tiny quantities; more leaves a sharp, artificial taste.

How are they used in syrup desserts?

In Turkish desserts almond is, alongside walnut, the commonest filling.

Coarsely broken almond is used in baklava.

The size matters; ground almond turns to paste once it takes syrup.

Pieces of two or three millimetres suit.

In products such as badempare a whole almond is placed on top.

That contributes both visually and texturally.

Almonds absorb syrup and soften in syrup desserts.

That is normal and expected; but where excessive softening is unwanted the almonds are lightly toasted first.

Toasted almonds absorb less syrup; the oil at the surface forms a barrier.

Syrup temperature matters too; hot syrup penetrates almonds faster.

What about decoration and storage?

Almond is widely used as a decoration too.

Flaked almond is the commonest form; thin with a wide surface, its visual impact is high.

It is lightly toasted before use; raw flaked almond looks pale.

Slivered almond is used as well, being thicker and more pronounced.

Whole almonds are placed individually as a top decoration.

Decoration should happen before service; almonds placed on a moist surface soften.

In storage almond is less delicate than walnut; its fat content is lower and less polyunsaturated.

Whole almonds keep six months at room temperature and a year in the fridge.

Ground almond keeps far less: two or three months at room temperature and six in the fridge.

Almond paste keeps three months in an airtight container in the fridge.

It should be wrapped tightly to stop it drying.

How are almonds stored?

Almonds are a fatty product and open to oxidation.

Whole almonds keep six months somewhere cool and dark.

That extends to a year in a fridge.

Two years in a freezer.

Ground almonds spoil faster; oxidation accelerates as the surface area grows.

Almond flour keeps three months in a fridge and six in a freezer.

Roasted almonds keep less well than raw ones; roasting makes the oil more available.

An airtight container should be used.

Rancid almonds develop a sharp, paint-like smell.

Those should not be used; they ruin an entire recipe.

Tasting a few before use is a simple check that saves the recipe.

Almonds also absorb odours readily, so they should not sit beside strongly scented foods in the fridge; a sealed glass jar solves that.

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Frequently asked questions

Why and how is the skin removed?

The thin brown skin on an almond contains tannins.

What does toasting change?

Toasting increases the aroma of almonds markedly.

How are they ground?

Almonds are 50 percent fat, so grinding requires care.

What separates almond paste from marzipan?

The two get confused but their ratios differ.

How are they used in syrup desserts?

In Turkish desserts almond is, alongside walnut, the commonest filling.

What about decoration and storage?

Almond is widely used as a decoration too.

How are almonds stored?

Almonds are a fatty product and open to oxidation.

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