The relationship between pepperoni and salami is like that between a square and a rectangle: every pepperoni is a salami, but not every salami is a pepperoni.
What exactly is salami?
Salami is a family of products made by seasoning ground meat, filling it into casing, then fermenting and drying it.
The name comes from the Italian verb "salare", to salt. There are hundreds of regional varieties.
Most products sold as "salam" in Turkey are heat-treated emulsion products, different from Italian dry salami.
In a true salami the production route runs: grinding, seasoning, filling, fermentation, drying.
Through that process the product loses thirty to forty percent of its weight and its water activity falls below 0.90.
Where does pepperoni come from?
Pepperoni is a salami variety developed by Italian immigrants in America.
Its name comes from the Italian "peperoni", meaning peppers, but no product by that name exists in Italy; there, peperoni means sweet peppers.
Classic pepperoni is made from a mixture of pork and beef. Versions produced in Turkey use beef and turkey.
Its defining feature is a load of red pepper and sweet paprika. The colour comes from there.
Fermentation is shorter than in classic Italian salami, generally two to four weeks.
What are the technical differences?
They diverge on four criteria.
The first is grind fineness. Pepperoni is ground fine; fat particles in the cut face are small and evenly distributed. Classic salami shows large fat particles.
The second is the spice profile. Red pepper and paprika dominate in pepperoni. Italian salami uses garlic, fennel seed, black pepper and wine.
The third is casing diameter. Pepperoni is filled into thin casing, typically 3 to 5 centimetres. Classic salami runs to 6 to 10.
The fourth is fat content. Pepperoni sits between 30 and 40 percent, and that directly governs its behaviour on a pizza.
| Property | Classic salami | Pepperoni |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Italy, regional | America, Italian style |
| Grind | Coarse, fat visible | Fine, homogeneous |
| Spice | Garlic, fennel, wine | Red pepper, paprika |
| Diameter | 6-10 cm | 3-5 cm |
| Fat | 20-30% | 30-40% |
| Colour | Deep red | Bright red |
Why do the edges cup in the oven?
This is pepperoni's best-known trait, and two mechanisms lie behind it.
The first is the casing. A thin residue of casing remains at the edge of a pepperoni slice. That casing contracts with heat and pulls the slice upward.
The second is fat. Fat at the centre of the slice melts and runs down; the edge, holding less fat, contracts and rises.
The result is a cup with raised edges. Melted fat collects in that hollow and fries; the edges turn crisp.
The cup shape is not accidental; some producers target it deliberately and choose their casing accordingly.
Thickly sliced pepperoni cups less. If cupping is wanted, the slice should be around a millimetre.
Pepperoni produced without casing does not cup at all; it stays flat and gives a different look on a pizza.
Which works better on pizza?
It depends, and they give two different results.
Pepperoni releases fat, and that fat passes into the dough and adds flavour. On some pizza styles that is the desired outcome.
But excess fat can wet the base. On thin-crust pizzas the number of slices has to be limited.
Classic salami releases less fat and holds its shape. It gives a more controlled result.
On flavour, pepperoni dominates and comes in front of the sauce and cheese. Classic salami forms a more balanced layer.
Placing pepperoni under the cheese increases the fat reaching the dough; placing it on top produces the cupping and browning.
How should salami be stored?
Dry salami has low water activity and can be kept at room temperature.
A whole piece can hang in a cool, airy place. Refrigeration extends its life but is not required.
Once a vacuum pack is opened the product keeps drying. Wrapping in paper beats plastic.
Sliced salami keeps a week in an airtight container. It carries on drying but does not spoil.
A white dust may appear at the surface; that is usually a deliberately applied mould or salt crystals. Coloured, fuzzy growth is mould spoilage.
Freezing is not advised. The fat phase separates and the thawed product turns grainy.
What should be checked on the label?
First, whether the product is fermented or heat-treated.
Most products sold as "salam" in Turkey are heat-treated and require refrigeration. A label saying "dry salami" or "fermented salami" indicates a different product.
Second, meat content. In dry salami it is high, because the product concentrates through drying.
Third, the type of meat. Products made in Turkey use beef, turkey or chicken.
Fourth, the storage condition; that is the most practical indicator of which category a product falls into.
Fifth, the additive list. Nitrite and nitrate are used for safety, ascorbate for colour stability.
Where else is it used in a kitchen?
Beyond pizza, pepperoni and salami appear in several applications.
In sandwiches they are used thinly sliced. Being fatty and spiced, they are balanced by a mild cheese and pickles.
In pasta sauces they are used diced. They release their fat and flavour the sauce; the salt of the sauce should then be adjusted afterwards.
On a charcuterie board they are served with olives, cheese and pickles. There the slice is kept around two millimetres.
In soups and casseroles a small amount adds depth.
On a breakfast plate with eggs they can replace sucuk; the flavour profile differs but the function is the same.
Frying calls for care. Because of the high fat content, salami burns quickly in a pan; medium heat and a short time are enough.
